June 29, 2007

Another Kind of Goodbye

I've been musing a bit recently on my stint as a Japanese homemaker, N.B. 主夫 not 主婦, and the idea came to me to write something, most likely in Japanese, about my rather odd experience of failing to get across to people what it is I do for a living and simply resorting to saying I'm a housewife. Funny conversations typically ensue, and I am dragged further into the world that is the daily life of a married, middle-aged Japanese woman. With that in mind, I started with the following, in Japanese but don't worry, I'll translate it too.

今日、七月七日、日本のどこかで誰か七夕を祝うかもしれないが、俺は名古屋からどことも知れない場所まで東海道線の普通電車に乗る予定しかない。車両の外、側面図が我と別れて消えてしまう。各街は同じ街みたいだし、俺の各場所の思い出も消えてしまう。その思い出を逆方向に行く電車に置いて他の忘れやすいながめに入る。

 蒲郡と豊橋の間にどこかで特定の名前も知らないタロウという若者も三人同級生も乗ってくる。タロウと彼の仲間があっちこっちにある空席に座らないままに立っている。「何でかな…」と自分に言ってタロウ組にじっと見つめる。しんしんと彼らはなんか笑い話と語りかける。その四人仲間は何と話してるかよく分からなくて、俺が分かれるのは「バラバラバラバラバラバラ外人バラバラバラバラだろう?」って、血も燃えるようになって怒れていく。「何でそんなにすっごく怒れるような気分しとるか、お前は」と聞くとしてタロウは自分の眼に見る。答えは「ワカンナイ」

Today, the 7th of July, somewhere in Japan someone must be celebrating Tanabata, but the only thing I have on my agenda is to take a train from Nagoya to God-knows-where on the Tokaido line. The view outside the car splits off and disappears; each town looks to be the same town, and as such my memory of each place disappears. I put those memories on a train going the opposite direction on which they enter yet another entirely forgettable scene [a really bad translation of nagame, which is used to describe particularly breathtaking views of the countryside].

Somewhere between Gamagori and Toyohashi some teenager for whom I don't have a particular name but will call "Taro" gets on the train with three of his classmates. He and his friends refuse to sit separately in seats scattered here and remain standing. "Why?" I muse to myself and stare transfixed at the group of them. Quietly, "Taro" starts to tell them some kind of anecdote; I can't really understand what the four of them are saying, but what I do catch, "yada yada yada yada gaijin yada yada yada," makes my blood boil. "Taro" looks into my eyes as if to say, "what's got you so bent outta shape?" My answer: "I dunno."

I should probably add that the town I live in, Mito, is roughly half way between Gamagori and Toyohashi. Everytime I come back here, I feel this intense weight of unwelcome that makes me think I'm arriving for the first time, even though I've lived here for years. I constantly have to shake off the locals' "astonishment" that a whitey is getting off at Aichi-Mito station, a reaction that is initially quaint but after three years becomes patently ridiculous. That and the oppressive humidity have rendered me all too willing to let my memories of this place pass as I head somewhere else.

7 Comments:

At 2:00 PM, Blogger water said...

Nicholas, I just checked your previous entries for your date of return. July 4, right? So you still have a few more days to muse on your foreign existance. I know the term Gaijin sounds offensive and unwelcoming. But if you hear it in China it mostly implies a friendly curiosity. People are willing to help and know more about you. Maybe next time you should go to China. You will have a totally different experience.:)

Bon Vayage and welcome home!

 
At 7:44 PM, Blogger Nicholas Theisen said...

My comment isn't so much on the word 外人 itself, as the interpretation in the passage itself is left open: the "I" could've easily misheard an enjambment like "それ以外人生も..." where the string 外人 does occur but is not in fact a word in the statement.

I'm used to living in a country that isn't even remotely racially homogenous, so I have a certain expectation that when you see someone who doesn't look like you, you don't go into a kind of paralytic shock. Healthy curiosity generally sounds something like "oh, are an American? A Brit?" not "gee, dahurr dems is furreners, yaharr"

 
At 10:18 PM, Blogger Michael K. said...

None of your justifiable anger about being treated as an outcast really surprises me - we've talked over this territory before - but it really does worry me that you've been living in such an environment for several years, and you seem to have a lot of pent-up rage about it that hasn't found an outlet. So much so that I don't think even coming home is going to give you a way to let it out of your system immediately - and let's face it, you do have a personality that works something like a combustion engine: it advances by means of (barely) controlled explosions.

 
At 4:01 AM, Blogger Unknown said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

 
At 4:04 AM, Blogger Unknown said...

Well, I hate to blog in the comments of my own blog, so I'll try to keep this short:

I was at a party in Mito, a party for a group of Americans who had visited at the behest of their Japanese professor, a loathsome young woman whom I have met several times yet who insists each time that we are meeting for the first. Let's be clear, I despise this woman; she's smarmy in a way I can't readily describe. Someone at the same table asks me the standard "what do you think of Japan?" which I've come to understand is code for "remind us all how we're special snowflakes." I serve up a few platitudes based roughly on things I do genuinely like, and I can't help but deviate into something that annoys me. But before I get there, I stop myself from saying it and deflect it into a minor, agitated arch of the brow. Ms. Loathsome picks up on it immediately, nods just once, and says, "exactly." I felt a weight lift off me I hadn't even known was there; I never realized that all I wanted was someone to say, "yeah, it sucks, and I know exactly why you're holding your tongue." I've complained about things before, both seriously and lightheartedly, and all I get is an "ooooh" and immediate change of topic. I'd hardened myself so much to those tiny little pricks of annoyance that the slightest bit of sympathy from a woman I detest absolutely floored me.

Oh yeah, and I might need a place to crash in Ann Arbor for a few days.

 
At 2:33 PM, Blogger Michael K. said...

Hmmmm. It would be like you to go to a party thrown by someone you hate.

A certain prominent scholar at UM - I think you know who - treats me exactly the same way. Until, that is, he's discovered (for the 34th time) that I work on Homer and he's downed a couple glasses of wine, when he starts imagining that I enthusiastically share all his petty gripes about US politics, university administration, and his rapidly decomposing body.

I'd offer my place, but I'm going to be out of town for most of a week starting on the 3rd.

 
At 10:32 PM, Blogger water said...

hey Nicholas, how is home? are you having too much fun with mike and forgot about the other one of the two?:)post something!!!

 

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